Magali Calmon, advice from an aesthetic medicine clinic director

Magali Calmon is the director of an aesthetic medicine clinic in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Thanks to her hospital experience, Magali not only assists her patients prior to treatment, but also provides a caring post-treatment follow-up.

What do you observe most often in your patients about their daily skin care routine?

I notice that many patients don't use a routine adapted to their skin type. So before a mesotherapy treatment, I take the time to observe and analyze their skin. I often have patients with irritated, red, peeling skin. Naturally, I ask them about their routine and, most of the time, the irritation is linked to a misunderstanding or misuse of products, especially those based on retinoic acid. One of my patients, who suffered from skin irritation, applied 1% retinol every night. In this case, the irritation was due to a concentration that was too high for her skin and too frequent use, especially after only a week. I therefore recommended that she begin by applying retinol once a week, and then switch to using it twice a week, depending on the concentration of retinol.
I recommended PERS Retinol Serum, made up of 0.3% pro-retinol, a milder version than classic retinol, combined with 2% retinol booster for prolonged action without risk of irritation.

What's your advice for incorporating retinol into your skincare routine?

I recommend starting by applying retinol twice a week to assess the skin's tolerance to this molecule. If it's well tolerated, you can switch to using it every other evening, alternating with moisturizing skin care products.
If your skin feels tight after application, I recommend using a repairing cream to make it more comfortable. PERS Rich Cream promotes cell regeneration and helps skin repair itself in depth. Its rich, thick texture acts like a cosmetic bandage, isolating the skin as if in a cocoon!

What do you think is the biggest mistake to avoid in a skincare protocol?

Forgetting to apply sun protection in the morning! You absolutely must include SPF50 in your routine to protect against UVA rays, which are responsible for skin ageing and are present all year round, and UVB rays, which cause burns (the famous sunburns).
I've fallen in love with PERS brand SPF 50+ Sun Protection Gel, which doesn't stick, is transparent and makes an excellent foundation. It can be reapplied during the day, even over make-up, without causing it to migrate.

Why is vitamin C so important?

Vitamin C is an active ingredient that protects the skin from all the external aggressions it is exposed to throughout the day, such as pollution and UV rays, by neutralizing free radicals. For me, its anti-oxidant properties make it a must-have in my skincare routine.
PERS Vitamin C Serum is concentrated and stabilized at 10%, so it won't oxidize over time, and can be used longer than normal vitamin C.